That's a loaded question. Sizes vary. Let's start with standard bed sizes and go to "old" quilt guidelines. From there you will determine your own size based on the bed you wish to cover, the quilt pattern you are using and your own preferences.

Some kits do come pre-cut. But you can also check out our "Cut Upâs" class, where alla the quilt top pieces are precut for you - and most times we finish the top during the class. I wasn't the best cutter at first either. A little sandpaper [dots] on the bottom of your ruler will help prevent slipping. Measure carefully, and if you are cutting many shapes the same put a piece of tape at the correct measurement to help with accuracy. Hold your ruler firmly at the end nearest you. Cut a little ways, stop cutting, and without moving your cutter, walk your fingers a short way up the ruler before cutting more. Continue this way until the whole strip is cut. Press the cutter toward the ruler gently with your index finger to prevent the cutter from wandering away from the ruler. Check after every few cuts to be sure that you are still cutting at right angles to prevent V cuts. Practice on inexpensive fabric if you don't feel sure of yourself. We also have classes on rotary cutting.

We have a variety of classes for levels of quilting. Start out with the basic beginner classes. But, also, just jump right in and start quilting ö small projects of placemats, doll quilts, wall hangings, pillows etc. Another option is to join my beginners block of the month. Each block teaches another technique and builds on the knowledge learned in the blocks before. Come in for a visit and I will be happy to suggest a few beginners books on basic quilting. Quilter's Complete Guide by Fons & Porter, but others may be just as good.

A sewing machine is not a must. Nor are any of the zillion other new tools on the market today. Our foremothers did very well, but slowly, without them. However, you can't do some of the speed methods of quilting without one. A rotary cutter, self sealing mat, and at least one (two are better) see through ruler 6" x 22" are important, but also not necessary. They make cutting out patches very very much faster. Again, you don't really need these either. Our foremothers used templates, but these are only accurate if you cut them from template plastic and use a sharp pencil to draw around them. A pair of scissors and needle and thread will get you started: But for a small investment you can enjoy a few modern implements that will serve to enhance you quilting experience. Stop in and we can brainstorm your needs and desires along with your budget.

Technically a fat quarter is a square quarter yard of fabric. First they cut the fabric into a half yard section, and then the section is cut in half the short way. You end up with an almost square piece of fabric, instead of a long skinny piece. They're very handy for some projects, and if the fabric has a large print you're more likely to get the whole print.

It will save you a lot of trouble when sewing your blocks together if your sewing is accurate. Your corners will be easier to match up properly, the blocks will all be pretty much the same size, and your quilt will come out the correct size. Read the hints at Accurate Seams and practice on scrap fabric until it becomes easier. If all else fails have your sewing machine checked out by a repair person. It may not be your fault you can't sew straight.

Of the patterns I sell, Eccentric Stars, Triangle Scrap Quilt and Four Patch are just the right size. I have another one coming soon.

I doubt if you'll ruin it. Try your rotary cutting on some scrap fabric first. See if there are some beginner classes in your area. And remember, if it doesn't come out just like the picture it is still a learning experience and your next one will be better.

Make something easy. If a person is not familiar with quilts anything you give them will look wonderful and be greatly appreciated. Make a log cabin in one of its many variations, or another easy quilt.

There are a few websites that specialize in this type of search: try: http://www.fabshophop.com/fabsearch.asp. They are offering a new service; they send out the description of your fabric to 750 fabric shops which will search their shelves to see if they have your fabric in stock. Try looking for out of stock fabrics at http://www.missingfabrics.com/.

I am unable to act as a message board as the website/newsletter would get out of control. Maybe someday we can adapt to a message board within. Meanwhile there are several quilting message boards in place: http://www.equilters.com/forums2.html, http://quiltersreview.com/forum/default.asp?Expand=5, http://www.alexandersonquilts.com/message/index.php?qfilter=0. Good luck with your search.

Cut the batting to the size of the finished block. Cut the backing a little larger than the unfinished block. Quilt each block to within an inch of the edge, and then sew the top sections together, using a 1/4" seam. Sew the batting together by hand, butting the edges together. Then fold over the edge of the backing fabric and use a blind stitch to sew this layer together. Sew the blocks together into twos, and then into larger pieces. When all is sewn together you can quilt the parts missed earlier. Borders can be added later, but you have to use the same method of sewing the tops, batting, and bottoms together.

Quilting thread is waxed, and maybe a little thicker than regular thread. It is waxed so it is easier to sew it through the layers of the quilt. It is not recommended for hand piecing. Just use regular good cotton or cotton-wrapped poly for that. I have seen quilting thread in a small range of colors and it has always been labeled as quilting thread.

You want to avoid using cheap thread -- the 10/dollar spools of poly from discount stores. It's just not good quality thread. Also, you may want to test brightly colored spools, like red, for bleeding before using them on a white quilt. Some quilters have reported that some spools of Coats and Clark do bleed if they get wet.

Your threads will only show if you press the iron onto the seam too hard. Otherwise they'll be safely hidden under the folds of fabric. It is still a good idea to use light or white thread on light pieces and dark thread on dark fabric. If you use dark thread in the seam of light fabrics, it could show through from behind the fabric after you press the seam.

In hidden applique the thread should match the background, but it really isn't going to be seen. If you are doing decorative stitching onto appliqued pieces, the thread is meant to be seen and can be any color you want.

Quilting needles are smaller in both dimensions, so they can be worked more easily through the layers of fabric. A "normal" needle is just large enough that you might find yourself straining to get it through the quilt sandwich. Try sizes you think you might be comfortable with, and compare the differences. You'll also find that different brands of needles will sew more easily, or harder, for you. Try various sizes and brands, and practice, and pretty soon you'll find what you're comfortable with.

A serger is a type of sewing machine which uses three, four, or five threads to sew with. It is most often used on knits when making clothing. It makes an overlock stitch, which binds threads over the raw cut edges in order to finish them off.

You do not need a serger to piece quilts, although you could use one if you had to.